MY FAVORITE EARLY CORN: "NORTHERN XTRA-SWEET" sh2 AVAILABLE IN YELLOW OR BICOLOR, GOOD COOL WEATHER EMERGENCE, HARVEST ~ 67 DAYS AFTER SPROUTS APPEAR
Corn is not difficult to grow if one follows certain basics, and with that said, I'll temporarily abandon my usual promotion of heirloom veggies for their unsurpassed flavor.
Due to years of research and development, hybridized corn became more flavorful than heirloom varieties, plus, some hybrids are ready to pick in two-thirds the time and hold their flavor longer after harvest than their heirloom predecessors.
Adding to that, multiple hybridized varieties are available to suit the various growing needs and individual palates of home gardeners:
TIP: Corn is a heavy feeder and needs sandy loam to properly develop ears. If ample composted organic matter (humus) is not present, one should use a balanced organic fertilizer especially formulated for corn because commercial fertilizers tend to destroy humus. Once ears begin forming, keep the roots wet to assure proper ear development.
Due to years of research and development, hybridized corn became more flavorful than heirloom varieties, plus, some hybrids are ready to pick in two-thirds the time and hold their flavor longer after harvest than their heirloom predecessors.
Adding to that, multiple hybridized varieties are available to suit the various growing needs and individual palates of home gardeners:
- Normal or High Sugar (su): Hearty corn flavor, firm with creamy texture. Sugars convert to starch quickly. Best eaten when harvested.
- Sugary-enhanced (se): Superior tenderness, creamy texture with good corn flavor. Sweeter than se varieties, best eaten soon after harvesting.
- Super-sweet (sh2): Extra sweet, crisp texture. Holds sweetness for more than one week after harvest if refrigerated.
- Synergistic (sy): Combines best of se and sh2. Very high sugars, tender and slow conversions of sugars to starch if refrigerated after harvest.
TIP: Corn is a heavy feeder and needs sandy loam to properly develop ears. If ample composted organic matter (humus) is not present, one should use a balanced organic fertilizer especially formulated for corn because commercial fertilizers tend to destroy humus. Once ears begin forming, keep the roots wet to assure proper ear development.
KERNELS SPROUTED INDOORS BETWEEN WET PAPER TOWELS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE ARE USUALLY READY TO PLANT WITHIN FOUR DAYS
Choose Treated Seed Whenever Possible
Although the usual germination rate of healthy kernels is higher than 90 percent under normal conditions, Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate. As such, it's best to safeguard against losses due to abundant Spring rains and extended cool temps:
(1) Purchase seeds that are coated with a pink non-toxic broad-spectrum contact fungicide that protects kernels against rotting underground after planting (see rightmost image).
(2) Trust the old saying: "One for the cutworm, one for the crow, one for good luck, and one to grow." To further buffer against losses, plant kernels three-inches apart, then thin them to six-inches apart once they grow to a height of six-inches. To estimate the number of seeds you'll need for planting, measure the total feet of the rows you wish to plant, then multiply the total feet by four.
For example, if one wishes to plant 3 five-foot long rows, that's a total of fifteen feet. Multiply 15 ft. x 4 to estimate the number of seeds you'll need, which is 60. Then, to compensate for a small percentage of kernels that won't germinate, include an extra dozen to assure that you'll have a full 60 sprouts to plant.
Pre-sprouting Saves up to One Week
Regardless of the soil temperature, spouting kernels indoors before planting will have shoots emerging from the soil up to one week sooner, plus, more seedlings will survive. When soil temps rise to 50 degrees Fahrenheit or above, count out the number of kernels that you'll need as described above.
Place them between layers of paper towels on a plate or waterproof container and keep them soaked with water 3-4 days at room temperature. Sprouts usually begin to appear by the third day, and nearly all kernels should have tiny shoots by the forth day which means that they're ready to plant.
Although the usual germination rate of healthy kernels is higher than 90 percent under normal conditions, Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate. As such, it's best to safeguard against losses due to abundant Spring rains and extended cool temps:
(1) Purchase seeds that are coated with a pink non-toxic broad-spectrum contact fungicide that protects kernels against rotting underground after planting (see rightmost image).
(2) Trust the old saying: "One for the cutworm, one for the crow, one for good luck, and one to grow." To further buffer against losses, plant kernels three-inches apart, then thin them to six-inches apart once they grow to a height of six-inches. To estimate the number of seeds you'll need for planting, measure the total feet of the rows you wish to plant, then multiply the total feet by four.
For example, if one wishes to plant 3 five-foot long rows, that's a total of fifteen feet. Multiply 15 ft. x 4 to estimate the number of seeds you'll need, which is 60. Then, to compensate for a small percentage of kernels that won't germinate, include an extra dozen to assure that you'll have a full 60 sprouts to plant.
Pre-sprouting Saves up to One Week
Regardless of the soil temperature, spouting kernels indoors before planting will have shoots emerging from the soil up to one week sooner, plus, more seedlings will survive. When soil temps rise to 50 degrees Fahrenheit or above, count out the number of kernels that you'll need as described above.
Place them between layers of paper towels on a plate or waterproof container and keep them soaked with water 3-4 days at room temperature. Sprouts usually begin to appear by the third day, and nearly all kernels should have tiny shoots by the forth day which means that they're ready to plant.
TASSELS AT THE TOP DROP POLLEN ON EAR SILKS
Plant Corn in "Blocks," Not Single Rows
Pollinators (bees, butterflies, wasps, etc.) play major roles in propagating most veggies, but they contribute very little to corn pollination. Although these insects are attracted to pollen-laden tassels at the top of the stalks, they have no interest in distributing it to the ears' silks.
As such, Mother Nature relies on "wind pollination" and gravity to distribute pollen to the silks, but unless we dramatically increase her chances for success, the results can be iffy.
Planting corn in "blocks" consisting of multiple side-by-side rows increases the chance for proper pollination through "cross pollination," thereby assuring more fully developed ears.
For instance, rather than planting one row of corn 12 feet long, you could plant 2 six-foot rows side-by-side (good), or 3 four-foot rows side-by-side (better).
TIP: Gardeners may further increase the chances of proper pollination by breaking off a few tassels to shake on the ears' silks. Success relies on doing that while the tassels are covered in powdery pollen, and while silks are milky white before showing any signs of drying by turning brown.
Pollinators (bees, butterflies, wasps, etc.) play major roles in propagating most veggies, but they contribute very little to corn pollination. Although these insects are attracted to pollen-laden tassels at the top of the stalks, they have no interest in distributing it to the ears' silks.
As such, Mother Nature relies on "wind pollination" and gravity to distribute pollen to the silks, but unless we dramatically increase her chances for success, the results can be iffy.
Planting corn in "blocks" consisting of multiple side-by-side rows increases the chance for proper pollination through "cross pollination," thereby assuring more fully developed ears.
For instance, rather than planting one row of corn 12 feet long, you could plant 2 six-foot rows side-by-side (good), or 3 four-foot rows side-by-side (better).
TIP: Gardeners may further increase the chances of proper pollination by breaking off a few tassels to shake on the ears' silks. Success relies on doing that while the tassels are covered in powdery pollen, and while silks are milky white before showing any signs of drying by turning brown.
THREE "BLOCKS" PLANTED IN TWO-WEEK INTERVALS
More on "Block" Planting
Shown to the right are three rows of corn planted in "blocks" with stalks of three separate heights which indicates that the "blocks" were planted at three separate times.
The tallest block furthest to the rear is my favorite early cool weather corn, "Northern Xtra-Sweet" sh2, which was sprouted indoors and planted as soon as soil temps reached 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
The second and third shorter blocks contain my favorite warmer weather corn, "Gotta Have It" sh2 (also known as "That's Delicious!" sh2), which was likewise sprouted indoors, but planted after the soil reached 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Since successful plantings of sweet corn yield at least two ears per foot of row, and since each row in the rightward picture from my garden is 15 feet long, if all three rows totaling 45 feet had been planted at once, the return would have been approximately 90 ears, all at once.
If that were the case, I would need to eat, freeze, and can all 90 ears of corn within one week to avoid waste, but I'd have no other fresh corn until next year.
Hence, planting corn in blocks at intervals allows gardeners to spread out and enjoy fresh harvests throughout the entire growing season and permits extra time for canning or freezing.
TIP: Since temperatures can affect growth rates, rather than plantings blocks in two-week intervals, it's best to wait until your first block is six-inches high before planting your second block, and so on for consecutive blocks.
Shown to the right are three rows of corn planted in "blocks" with stalks of three separate heights which indicates that the "blocks" were planted at three separate times.
The tallest block furthest to the rear is my favorite early cool weather corn, "Northern Xtra-Sweet" sh2, which was sprouted indoors and planted as soon as soil temps reached 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
The second and third shorter blocks contain my favorite warmer weather corn, "Gotta Have It" sh2 (also known as "That's Delicious!" sh2), which was likewise sprouted indoors, but planted after the soil reached 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Since successful plantings of sweet corn yield at least two ears per foot of row, and since each row in the rightward picture from my garden is 15 feet long, if all three rows totaling 45 feet had been planted at once, the return would have been approximately 90 ears, all at once.
If that were the case, I would need to eat, freeze, and can all 90 ears of corn within one week to avoid waste, but I'd have no other fresh corn until next year.
Hence, planting corn in blocks at intervals allows gardeners to spread out and enjoy fresh harvests throughout the entire growing season and permits extra time for canning or freezing.
TIP: Since temperatures can affect growth rates, rather than plantings blocks in two-week intervals, it's best to wait until your first block is six-inches high before planting your second block, and so on for consecutive blocks.
"HILL" YOUR CORN BY MOUNDING SOIL OVER THE ROOTS
Always Hill your Corn
After waiting more than two months for those first succulent ears, your day could be ruined by a rain and/or wind squall that leaves your stalks lying in the mud.
Corn does not have an extensive root system, so unless one "hills" its roots, winds can easily topple the stalks once they become top-heavy.
When your plants reach 16 inches in height, loosen or till the soil between the rows, then shovel or rake the soil into mounds over the roots.
Not only does this significantly deter toppling, it enhances growth and increases yields by holding moisture and nutrients at the roots where they are most needed.
After waiting more than two months for those first succulent ears, your day could be ruined by a rain and/or wind squall that leaves your stalks lying in the mud.
Corn does not have an extensive root system, so unless one "hills" its roots, winds can easily topple the stalks once they become top-heavy.
When your plants reach 16 inches in height, loosen or till the soil between the rows, then shovel or rake the soil into mounds over the roots.
Not only does this significantly deter toppling, it enhances growth and increases yields by holding moisture and nutrients at the roots where they are most needed.
MY FAVORITE WARMER WEATHER CORN: "GOTTA HAVE IT" sh2 (aka "THAT'S DELICIOUS!" sh2)
Pests and Insecticides
As with most vegetables, pests target corn from the moment it's planted until harvest (stinkbugs, cutworms, grasshoppers, aphids, earworms, flea beetle, Japanese beetle, etc.).
Due to the multiple variety of corn pests, using only one pesticide or organic preventative will not successfully control all. For example, Malathion kills stinkbugs that attack the stalks and leaves, but it won't kill cutworms that attack ears.
Sevin kills cutworms that attack ears, but it won't kill stinkbugs, and my favorite organic pesticide of nicotine tea kills neither stinkbugs nor cutworms. As such, I use an approach for corn consisting of Malathion and Sevin.
Since Malathion controls insects that attack stalks and leaves (grasshoppers, stinkbugs, flea beetle, Japanese beetle), I apply it to the stalks and leaves.
And, since Sevin kills pests that attack ears (cutworms, earworms, Japanese beetle, flea beetle), I apply it to the ears' silks once they begin turning brown, since browning indicates that no further pollination is possible.
Entire harvests can be lost if not treated, but if preventive measures are taken, one may expect the same results as these four randomly-picked ears.
As with most vegetables, pests target corn from the moment it's planted until harvest (stinkbugs, cutworms, grasshoppers, aphids, earworms, flea beetle, Japanese beetle, etc.).
Due to the multiple variety of corn pests, using only one pesticide or organic preventative will not successfully control all. For example, Malathion kills stinkbugs that attack the stalks and leaves, but it won't kill cutworms that attack ears.
Sevin kills cutworms that attack ears, but it won't kill stinkbugs, and my favorite organic pesticide of nicotine tea kills neither stinkbugs nor cutworms. As such, I use an approach for corn consisting of Malathion and Sevin.
Since Malathion controls insects that attack stalks and leaves (grasshoppers, stinkbugs, flea beetle, Japanese beetle), I apply it to the stalks and leaves.
And, since Sevin kills pests that attack ears (cutworms, earworms, Japanese beetle, flea beetle), I apply it to the ears' silks once they begin turning brown, since browning indicates that no further pollination is possible.
Entire harvests can be lost if not treated, but if preventive measures are taken, one may expect the same results as these four randomly-picked ears.
PEEL AN EAR LIKE A BANANA TO DETERMINE ITS READYNESS
When and How to Pick
Seed corn packets include a suggested number of days to harvest, but one should expect to begin picking at least one week later than that, and perhaps two.
Suppliers usually omit that harvest dates are not from the time one plants, but from when shoots are visible above ground, plus, inclemently cool weather can slow harvests further.
Although gardeners might estimate when to pick, they should trust their senses of sight and touch for the best indications of those ears' readiness, and this two-pronged approach requires very little practice:
TIP: If gardeners are gifted with more corn than expected at one time, remember that Super-sweet (sh2) and Synergistic (sy) hybrid varieties can be picked and refrigerated up to one week before they begin losing their sweetness and flavor.
Seed corn packets include a suggested number of days to harvest, but one should expect to begin picking at least one week later than that, and perhaps two.
Suppliers usually omit that harvest dates are not from the time one plants, but from when shoots are visible above ground, plus, inclemently cool weather can slow harvests further.
Although gardeners might estimate when to pick, they should trust their senses of sight and touch for the best indications of those ears' readiness, and this two-pronged approach requires very little practice:
- Visually judge which ears are largest and give those a light squeeze to determine which feel fullest.
- Of those ears that feel fullest, and without removing any from the stalks, peel the husks downward as one might peel a banana (see image at right). If any ears are not fully developed, pull the husks back up and check them again another day.
TIP: If gardeners are gifted with more corn than expected at one time, remember that Super-sweet (sh2) and Synergistic (sy) hybrid varieties can be picked and refrigerated up to one week before they begin losing their sweetness and flavor.