STRAIGHTNECK and CROOKNECK
HEIRLOOM SUMMER SQUASH
Heirloom Yellow Summer Squash are easy to grow and positively delicious as standalone dishes, or when incorporated in soups, stews, and casseroles. Simply put, their culinary versatility is commendable.
I've grown many squash varieties over the years, but the natural buttery flavor of straightneck and crookneck heirloom Yellow Summer Squash is unique.
Although hybrid squash varieties boast larger yields and enhanced disease resistance, they're starchy and flavorless except for the seasonings one must add to compensate.
As such, I cannot express enough that heirloom varieties are definitely worth growing, and aside from their superior natural flavor, one well-tended heirloom vine can return more than one half bushel (20 lbs.) of squash.
Harvesting requires daily vigilance since they tend to grow rapidly overnight, and one should harvest Yellow Summer Squash between 6 and 8 inches in length while the skins are creamy yellow. The entire squash is edible at this stage of development, but if left on the vine longer, skins turn tough and seeds become chewy.
TIP: Frequent picking encourages squash vines to produce more abundantly.
I've grown many squash varieties over the years, but the natural buttery flavor of straightneck and crookneck heirloom Yellow Summer Squash is unique.
Although hybrid squash varieties boast larger yields and enhanced disease resistance, they're starchy and flavorless except for the seasonings one must add to compensate.
As such, I cannot express enough that heirloom varieties are definitely worth growing, and aside from their superior natural flavor, one well-tended heirloom vine can return more than one half bushel (20 lbs.) of squash.
Harvesting requires daily vigilance since they tend to grow rapidly overnight, and one should harvest Yellow Summer Squash between 6 and 8 inches in length while the skins are creamy yellow. The entire squash is edible at this stage of development, but if left on the vine longer, skins turn tough and seeds become chewy.
TIP: Frequent picking encourages squash vines to produce more abundantly.
RAISED MOUND DIAGRAM
Mound Planting:
Squash do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is enough for decent success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Squash thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless squash.
Depicted to the right is a mound that's sized properly for three vines. Begin by measuring a 24 inch (2 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inch deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many squash to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout two seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot for placement in mounds as depicted by "A," "B," and "C" after your last frost date.
When the "A," "B," and "C " transplants form their first blossoms, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by numbers 1 through 6.
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout, you'll have seedling with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the three most vigorous seedlings in each mound.
Squash do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is enough for decent success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Squash thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless squash.
Depicted to the right is a mound that's sized properly for three vines. Begin by measuring a 24 inch (2 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inch deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many squash to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout two seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot for placement in mounds as depicted by "A," "B," and "C" after your last frost date.
When the "A," "B," and "C " transplants form their first blossoms, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by numbers 1 through 6.
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout, you'll have seedling with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the three most vigorous seedlings in each mound.
FEMALE BLOSSOM ON LEFT, MALE ON RIGHT
The Birds and Bees:
Though we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, squash do not, and gardeners should be willing assist until pollinators find those blossoms.
Squash produce male and female blossoms, and as shown in the image at right, the female blossom on the left has formed at the end of a tiny squash. To her right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and without some means of transferring pollen from the male to female blossom, the tiny squash will wither and die. Now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
Though we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, squash do not, and gardeners should be willing assist until pollinators find those blossoms.
Squash produce male and female blossoms, and as shown in the image at right, the female blossom on the left has formed at the end of a tiny squash. To her right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and without some means of transferring pollen from the male to female blossom, the tiny squash will wither and die. Now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
COLLECTING YELLOW POLLEN FROM A MALE BLOSSOM
As a rule, squash vines often produce several small squash with female blossoms before any male blossoms form, so don't be disappointed if you can't locate any male blossoms on your first attempt.
Try again each day until locating a male blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the center of a male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, and you should see the yellow powder associated with pollen on your blotting device (see image at right). Use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to gently distribute the pollen to the centers of open female blossoms, and three female blossoms can be pollinated from one male blossom.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating squash, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer. Since squash vines don't always produce male and female blossoms at the same time (and blossoms only last about 12 hours in the sun), male blossoms will remain useable up to 24 hours if plucked and refrigerated in plastic baggies or Tupperware containers.
Try again each day until locating a male blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the center of a male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, and you should see the yellow powder associated with pollen on your blotting device (see image at right). Use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to gently distribute the pollen to the centers of open female blossoms, and three female blossoms can be pollinated from one male blossom.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating squash, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer. Since squash vines don't always produce male and female blossoms at the same time (and blossoms only last about 12 hours in the sun), male blossoms will remain useable up to 24 hours if plucked and refrigerated in plastic baggies or Tupperware containers.