SMOOTH-SKINNED CANARY MELON
Few healthy deserts come close to rivaling the complex flavors of perfectly ripened melons, not to mention how they stand out as appetizers or side dishes.
But oddly enough, with the exception of Watermelons that are true melons, not everything that we call "melons" are actually melons, and not all that we call "Cantaloupes" are Cantaloupes.
To keep things simple while sorting this out, let's call them all "melons" but divide them into two categories by appearance:
Smooth-skinned: Cantaloupes are hard-shelled melons (Watermelon, Honeydew, Canary, Casaba, Crenshaw, etc.) with slick hard rinds and green-to-orange or red flesh. With the exception of Watermelons, most true melons aren't grown commercially in the United States due to their longer ripening times which are better suited to warmer climates.
Rough-skinned: Muskmelons are rough-skinned with more delicate rinds and soft orange flesh, and, due to shorter ripening times, are more frequently grown commercially in the United States than their hard-shelled cousins.
TIP: Several Muskmelon varieties ripen within 80 days after seeds sprout, thus lending themselves better to overall success than smooth-skinned varieties needing longer growing seasons.
But oddly enough, with the exception of Watermelons that are true melons, not everything that we call "melons" are actually melons, and not all that we call "Cantaloupes" are Cantaloupes.
To keep things simple while sorting this out, let's call them all "melons" but divide them into two categories by appearance:
Smooth-skinned: Cantaloupes are hard-shelled melons (Watermelon, Honeydew, Canary, Casaba, Crenshaw, etc.) with slick hard rinds and green-to-orange or red flesh. With the exception of Watermelons, most true melons aren't grown commercially in the United States due to their longer ripening times which are better suited to warmer climates.
Rough-skinned: Muskmelons are rough-skinned with more delicate rinds and soft orange flesh, and, due to shorter ripening times, are more frequently grown commercially in the United States than their hard-shelled cousins.
TIP: Several Muskmelon varieties ripen within 80 days after seeds sprout, thus lending themselves better to overall success than smooth-skinned varieties needing longer growing seasons.
MY ALL-AROUND FAVORITE: "HANNA'S CHOICE" MUSKMELON
Bush Varieties:
Although Bush varieties need only 16 square feet per hill to thrive (4 ft. x 4 ft.), they produce fewer melons of smaller size than non-bush varieties, yet their flavor won't disappoint. As a fun-factor, several varieties produce single-serving sized melons that absolutely delight children.
Conventional Varieties:
Conventional melon varieties need room to sprawl and will produce 4 to 6 melons per vine if tended properly, providing that Mother Nature allows favorable conditions. As a rule-of-thumb, one planting mound containing three vines needs a minimum of 100 square feet (10 ft. x 10 ft.) to thrive.
TIP: To successfully grow melon of maximum size and flavor, gardeners need to follow the "Mound Planting" guidelines listed below.
Although Bush varieties need only 16 square feet per hill to thrive (4 ft. x 4 ft.), they produce fewer melons of smaller size than non-bush varieties, yet their flavor won't disappoint. As a fun-factor, several varieties produce single-serving sized melons that absolutely delight children.
Conventional Varieties:
Conventional melon varieties need room to sprawl and will produce 4 to 6 melons per vine if tended properly, providing that Mother Nature allows favorable conditions. As a rule-of-thumb, one planting mound containing three vines needs a minimum of 100 square feet (10 ft. x 10 ft.) to thrive.
TIP: To successfully grow melon of maximum size and flavor, gardeners need to follow the "Mound Planting" guidelines listed below.
RAISED MOUND DIAGRAM
Mound Planting:
Melons do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is needed for good success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Melons thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless fruits.
Depicted to the right is a mound that's sized properly for THREE vines. Begin by measuring a 24 inch (2 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inches deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many melons to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout three seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot. When seedlings are two inches tall, remove all but the healthiest one seedling per pot for placement in mounds as depicted by "A," "B," and "C."
When the "A," "B," and "C" transplants form their first blossoms, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by numbers 1 through 6.
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout, you'll have seedlings with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the three most vigorous seedlings in each mound.
Melons do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is needed for good success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Melons thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless fruits.
Depicted to the right is a mound that's sized properly for THREE vines. Begin by measuring a 24 inch (2 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inches deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many melons to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout three seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot. When seedlings are two inches tall, remove all but the healthiest one seedling per pot for placement in mounds as depicted by "A," "B," and "C."
When the "A," "B," and "C" transplants form their first blossoms, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by numbers 1 through 6.
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout, you'll have seedlings with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the three most vigorous seedlings in each mound.
OVERLAP LANDSCAPE FABRIC TO COVER LARGER AREAS
Fooling Mother Nature:
To the largest extent, melons thrive best in hot temperatures and that presents challenges to gardeners in northern regions. Cool growing conditions can produce bland melons lacking sugar and flavor, but we can trick melon vines into thinking they're in warmer climates by using dark-colored perforated landscape fabric.
Simply put, the fabric collects the Sun's rays to heat the vines and soil during the day, then acts as an evening blanket to retain soil warmth that's radiated to the vines overnight.
Shown to the right are two raised mounds prepared as in the "Raised Mound Diagram" above, and since I grow traditional muskmelons that need lots of sprawling room, each hill is permitted 100 square feet (10 ft. x 10 ft.) of fabric.
TIP: You'll need far less fabric when growing bush varieties (usually 16 square feet per hill (4 ft. x 4 ft.), but one should still check the seed packet for growing recommendations.
To the largest extent, melons thrive best in hot temperatures and that presents challenges to gardeners in northern regions. Cool growing conditions can produce bland melons lacking sugar and flavor, but we can trick melon vines into thinking they're in warmer climates by using dark-colored perforated landscape fabric.
Simply put, the fabric collects the Sun's rays to heat the vines and soil during the day, then acts as an evening blanket to retain soil warmth that's radiated to the vines overnight.
Shown to the right are two raised mounds prepared as in the "Raised Mound Diagram" above, and since I grow traditional muskmelons that need lots of sprawling room, each hill is permitted 100 square feet (10 ft. x 10 ft.) of fabric.
TIP: You'll need far less fabric when growing bush varieties (usually 16 square feet per hill (4 ft. x 4 ft.), but one should still check the seed packet for growing recommendations.
LANDSCAPE STAPLES CAN BE SAVED AND REUSED
Choosing and Installing Landscape Fabric
As mentioned above, dark-colored landscape fabric enhances growth while permitting water transmission, and multiple varieties can be found at most garden centers. Sold in rolls of various lengths and widths, they vary in price and consist of perforated plastics and water-transmittable fiberglass meshes, but solid black varieties perform best for heat absorption.
You'll also need landscape staples as shown in the image at right which are likewise available at most garden centers. Calculate how many feet of fabric you'll be installing around the perimeter of your mounds, and be mindful to add additional feet for overlapping seams.
You'll need one staple for every one-and-a-half feet to prevent wind from removing your fabric, so divide your total feet by 1.5 to get a close estimate of staples needed.
TIP: Never use regular plastic sheeting for this application: Unperforated plastic pools water which encourages the rotting of fruit and plant diseases.
As mentioned above, dark-colored landscape fabric enhances growth while permitting water transmission, and multiple varieties can be found at most garden centers. Sold in rolls of various lengths and widths, they vary in price and consist of perforated plastics and water-transmittable fiberglass meshes, but solid black varieties perform best for heat absorption.
You'll also need landscape staples as shown in the image at right which are likewise available at most garden centers. Calculate how many feet of fabric you'll be installing around the perimeter of your mounds, and be mindful to add additional feet for overlapping seams.
You'll need one staple for every one-and-a-half feet to prevent wind from removing your fabric, so divide your total feet by 1.5 to get a close estimate of staples needed.
TIP: Never use regular plastic sheeting for this application: Unperforated plastic pools water which encourages the rotting of fruit and plant diseases.
FEMALE BLOSSOM ON LEFT, MALE ON RIGHT
The Birds and Bees:
Though we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, melons do not, and gardeners should be willing to step in until pollinators find those blossoms.
Melon vines produce male and female blossoms, and if you left click on the rightward image to enlarge, you'll see that the female blossom on the left has a small green oval globe at her base that could potentially form a melon. On the right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
Though we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, melons do not, and gardeners should be willing to step in until pollinators find those blossoms.
Melon vines produce male and female blossoms, and if you left click on the rightward image to enlarge, you'll see that the female blossom on the left has a small green oval globe at her base that could potentially form a melon. On the right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
POLLENATING FEMALE MELON BLOSSOMS
As a rule, melon vines produce more male than female blossoms, so don't be disappointed if you can't locate any female blossoms on your first attempt.
Try again each day until locating a female blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the centers of several male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, then use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to blot the center of any female blossoms that are open. Even though you may not see the usual yellowish residue associated with pollen on your blotting device, it's there, so don't worry.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating melons, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer.
Try again each day until locating a female blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the centers of several male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, then use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to blot the center of any female blossoms that are open. Even though you may not see the usual yellowish residue associated with pollen on your blotting device, it's there, so don't worry.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating melons, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer.
SHIELDS PROVIDE PROTECTION AGAINST INSECTS AND ROT
Insect Shields
As melons begin to ripen, they become easy targets for worms, slugs, and insects, not to mention potential rotting where melons touch the soil or landscape fabric.
Shielding adds a sizeable measure of protection against those potential pitfalls, but it must be done before melons begin to ripen.
Although special mats, cradles, and meshes for this purpose are made and sold, several less expensive methods work quite well: Wooden roofing shingles from building supply stores, disposable upside-down plastic dinner plates, scrap pieces of wood, etc.
What's most important is that you not use items or materials that pool water or retain moisture such as cardboard or newspaper.
TIP: Although shielding significantly decreases the amount of insect damage and rot, you should turn ripening melons every few days to avoid soft spots.
As melons begin to ripen, they become easy targets for worms, slugs, and insects, not to mention potential rotting where melons touch the soil or landscape fabric.
Shielding adds a sizeable measure of protection against those potential pitfalls, but it must be done before melons begin to ripen.
Although special mats, cradles, and meshes for this purpose are made and sold, several less expensive methods work quite well: Wooden roofing shingles from building supply stores, disposable upside-down plastic dinner plates, scrap pieces of wood, etc.
What's most important is that you not use items or materials that pool water or retain moisture such as cardboard or newspaper.
TIP: Although shielding significantly decreases the amount of insect damage and rot, you should turn ripening melons every few days to avoid soft spots.