MY OVERALL FAVORITE SLICING TOMATO: HEIRLOOM MEXICO
PINK BEEFSTEAK
Home gardeners often consider tomatoes as their most favored plants for two main reasons: Their adaptability to various growing conditions is impressive, and supermarket varieties that are picked and shipped half ripened cannot compare to a homegrown tomato's meaty texture and complex flavor.
Anyone who has a two square foot area that receives six hours of sunlight each day can grow amazing tomatoes in containers, and persons with additional space can increase yields by applying simple growing basics.
Well-drained soil:
For tomatoes to reach their maximum productivity, they need a growing medium of well-drained sandy loam soil. Heavy clay soil retains too much water which rots roots through oxygen deprivation, whereas extremely sandy soils drain too quickly and deprive plants of nutrients and water. Moreover, soggy soil promotes diseases that can sicken and kill plants.
Anyone who has a two square foot area that receives six hours of sunlight each day can grow amazing tomatoes in containers, and persons with additional space can increase yields by applying simple growing basics.
Well-drained soil:
For tomatoes to reach their maximum productivity, they need a growing medium of well-drained sandy loam soil. Heavy clay soil retains too much water which rots roots through oxygen deprivation, whereas extremely sandy soils drain too quickly and deprive plants of nutrients and water. Moreover, soggy soil promotes diseases that can sicken and kill plants.
Hybrids and Heirlooms:
Hybrids: These are not GMOs, but rather crossbreeds that provide superior disease resistance, higher yields, uniformly shaped fruit, and good resilience under unfavorable growing conditions. Hybrids are stocked by most garden centers each Spring, and most mid to late season Hybrids are relatively flavorful. Please note; seeds saved from Hybrids will not reproduce the same Hybrids and will revert to a strain from which the Hybrid was crossbred.
Hybrids: These are not GMOs, but rather crossbreeds that provide superior disease resistance, higher yields, uniformly shaped fruit, and good resilience under unfavorable growing conditions. Hybrids are stocked by most garden centers each Spring, and most mid to late season Hybrids are relatively flavorful. Please note; seeds saved from Hybrids will not reproduce the same Hybrids and will revert to a strain from which the Hybrid was crossbred.
INDETERMINATE MEXICO PINKS CAGED FOR SUPPORT
Heirlooms: Definitely a bigger challenge for multiple reasons, Heirlooms are typically propagated by experienced gardeners because garden centers typically don't stock Heirlooms.
As such, Heirloom seeds or seedlings must be ordered (usually from the Internet), and seeds must be sprouted indoors at least two months before the last frost date to assure adequate sized transplants.
Once Heirlooms begin to produce ripe fruits, saved seeds will replicate the same variety year after year to provide fruits superior in flavor when compared to their hybridized counterparts.
Although Heirlooms generally lack the uniformity of shape and superior disease resistance of Hybrids, Heirlooms hold bragging rights for unsurpassed flavor.
TIP: When saving seeds for propagation, always use the largest tomato from the strongest vine to avoid passing along genes from smaller or weaker plants. Resist the urge to save seeds from the largest overall tomato that forms on a weaker vine .
As such, Heirloom seeds or seedlings must be ordered (usually from the Internet), and seeds must be sprouted indoors at least two months before the last frost date to assure adequate sized transplants.
Once Heirlooms begin to produce ripe fruits, saved seeds will replicate the same variety year after year to provide fruits superior in flavor when compared to their hybridized counterparts.
Although Heirlooms generally lack the uniformity of shape and superior disease resistance of Hybrids, Heirlooms hold bragging rights for unsurpassed flavor.
TIP: When saving seeds for propagation, always use the largest tomato from the strongest vine to avoid passing along genes from smaller or weaker plants. Resist the urge to save seeds from the largest overall tomato that forms on a weaker vine .
INDETERMINATE OPALKA ROMAS CAGED FOR SUPPORT
Determinates and Indeterminates:
Determinate varieties have vines that stop growing when fruits begin forming, and these are typically "early season" producers that set fruit in cool weather. As such, "early season" varieties cannot rival the flavor of mid to late season varieties that ripen in warmer conditions. Due to their compact size, determinates grow well in three gallon containers and require little or no vine support.
Indeterminate varieties need caging or support since their vines continue growing after setting fruit, and because these "mid season" or "late season" varieties ripen in warmer weather, they produce more abundantly and have better flavor. Container planting of "indeterminate" varieties combined with vine support will return excellent results if five gallon planters are used.
Tip: Not every adequately sized container makes a good planter. Those old buckets that you may have lying around might be the right size, but don't forget to drill drainage holes in their bases.
Determinate varieties have vines that stop growing when fruits begin forming, and these are typically "early season" producers that set fruit in cool weather. As such, "early season" varieties cannot rival the flavor of mid to late season varieties that ripen in warmer conditions. Due to their compact size, determinates grow well in three gallon containers and require little or no vine support.
Indeterminate varieties need caging or support since their vines continue growing after setting fruit, and because these "mid season" or "late season" varieties ripen in warmer weather, they produce more abundantly and have better flavor. Container planting of "indeterminate" varieties combined with vine support will return excellent results if five gallon planters are used.
Tip: Not every adequately sized container makes a good planter. Those old buckets that you may have lying around might be the right size, but don't forget to drill drainage holes in their bases.
NON-FAT POWDERED MILK ENHANCES CALCIUM UPTAKE
Transplanting:
Soggy-wet soil caused by inadequate drainage, over watering and excessive rainfall encourages conditions that reduce yields and sicken tomato plants.
Although we can regulate those first two pitfalls, we can't control rain fall, so an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Avoiding disappointment begins at planting time: Blossom end rot is not a disease, but a physical condition usually attributed to the plant's inability to extract calcium from the ground due to waterlogged soil.
As a preventative, purchase a box of non-fat powdered milk and sprinkle one cup of the dry powder around each transplant while backfilling the hole with soil.
TIP: Never use prepackaged liquid milk from cartons or containers. These may contain milkfat, an oil that can contaminate soil and sicken plants.
Soggy-wet soil caused by inadequate drainage, over watering and excessive rainfall encourages conditions that reduce yields and sicken tomato plants.
Although we can regulate those first two pitfalls, we can't control rain fall, so an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Avoiding disappointment begins at planting time: Blossom end rot is not a disease, but a physical condition usually attributed to the plant's inability to extract calcium from the ground due to waterlogged soil.
As a preventative, purchase a box of non-fat powdered milk and sprinkle one cup of the dry powder around each transplant while backfilling the hole with soil.
TIP: Never use prepackaged liquid milk from cartons or containers. These may contain milkfat, an oil that can contaminate soil and sicken plants.
DIG YOUR HOLE AT LEAST 12" DEEP AND INCLUDE A PLASTIC SLEEVE CUT FROM A TWO LITRE BOTTLE
Whenever possible, transplant on overcast days or at sundown to avoid heat and minimize transplant shock. Dig your holes at least twelve inches deep; every inch of buried stalk will sprout roots to supply additional nutrients.
TIP: Make plastic sleeves from two liter plastic containers and drop one into each hole. Place the root ball into the sleeve, and as you backfill, raise the sleeve toward ground level until 4-5 inches is exposed. This gives protection against cutworms that can sever young plants, plus, spot watering inside the sleeve conserves water by delivering moisture directly to the roots.
TIP: To permit calcium absorption through the leaves, mix a regular strength liquid milk solution per instructions on the powdered milk package and spray the foliage of each plant to runoff. Repeat this once every two weeks throughout the growing season until the plants stop forming fruit, and you can refrigerate any excess non-fat liquid milk until the next scheduled spraying.
Milk is a natural fungicide, plus significant research indicates that nonfat dry milk fights some viruses that attack tomatoes.
TIP: Make plastic sleeves from two liter plastic containers and drop one into each hole. Place the root ball into the sleeve, and as you backfill, raise the sleeve toward ground level until 4-5 inches is exposed. This gives protection against cutworms that can sever young plants, plus, spot watering inside the sleeve conserves water by delivering moisture directly to the roots.
TIP: To permit calcium absorption through the leaves, mix a regular strength liquid milk solution per instructions on the powdered milk package and spray the foliage of each plant to runoff. Repeat this once every two weeks throughout the growing season until the plants stop forming fruit, and you can refrigerate any excess non-fat liquid milk until the next scheduled spraying.
Milk is a natural fungicide, plus significant research indicates that nonfat dry milk fights some viruses that attack tomatoes.
SUCKER IN TOP IMAGE, BLOSSOM CLUSTER BELOW. NOTE TOMATO FORMING ON RIGHTMOST
PART OF BLOSSOM CLUSTER.
To 'Sucker,' or not.
Numerous websites cover how to remove “suckers” from tomatoes, but there are two main schools of thought regarding why it may (or may not) be beneficial.
(1) Pro-suckering logic touts fewer and larger tomatoes, and that removing “suckers,” decreases foliage to allow better air flow through leaves to reduce moisture which may encourage funguses and viruses.
(2) Anti-suckering logic deems that reducing foliage lessens the plant’s ability to shade its developing fruits, and direct sun hitting those fruits produces thicker skins which add a slightly bitter flavor.
TIP: Why I support the anti-suckering logic of No. 2. Personally, I allow my plants to decide how many fruits they want to produce, but if one's sole purpose is to have fewer but larger tomatoes, one does not need to remove “suckers.” Larger and fewer tomatoes can be accomplished by pinching off unwanted blossoms, thereby reducing the number of tomatoes that will form while diverting more energy to the fruits that one chooses to keep. In more simple terms, once you spot the first green immature tomato forming in a blossom cluster (see image at right), you can pinch off all remaining blossoms in that cluster.
This way, one does not need to decrease foliage which shades fruits, thus reducing the possibility of thicker skins and a bitter aftertaste.
Additionally, rather than remove “suckers” to reduce moisture on the foliage, you’ll note in the following section that I shun aerial watering sprinklers while endorsing spot watering with hoses or watering cans. This gives a double benefit of conserving water by putting it directly at the plant’s roots while discouraging weed growth in areas kept dry.
Numerous websites cover how to remove “suckers” from tomatoes, but there are two main schools of thought regarding why it may (or may not) be beneficial.
(1) Pro-suckering logic touts fewer and larger tomatoes, and that removing “suckers,” decreases foliage to allow better air flow through leaves to reduce moisture which may encourage funguses and viruses.
(2) Anti-suckering logic deems that reducing foliage lessens the plant’s ability to shade its developing fruits, and direct sun hitting those fruits produces thicker skins which add a slightly bitter flavor.
TIP: Why I support the anti-suckering logic of No. 2. Personally, I allow my plants to decide how many fruits they want to produce, but if one's sole purpose is to have fewer but larger tomatoes, one does not need to remove “suckers.” Larger and fewer tomatoes can be accomplished by pinching off unwanted blossoms, thereby reducing the number of tomatoes that will form while diverting more energy to the fruits that one chooses to keep. In more simple terms, once you spot the first green immature tomato forming in a blossom cluster (see image at right), you can pinch off all remaining blossoms in that cluster.
This way, one does not need to decrease foliage which shades fruits, thus reducing the possibility of thicker skins and a bitter aftertaste.
Additionally, rather than remove “suckers” to reduce moisture on the foliage, you’ll note in the following section that I shun aerial watering sprinklers while endorsing spot watering with hoses or watering cans. This gives a double benefit of conserving water by putting it directly at the plant’s roots while discouraging weed growth in areas kept dry.
PLASTIC SLEEVES AT GROUND LEVEL DETER CUTWORMS AND MINIMIZE WATERING.
Don't Overwater:
First and foremost, remember that tomatoes hate soggy soil. As a recommended daily routine, poke your finger two inches beneath the soil's surface at the plant's base. If you feel dampness, you're good.
Area sprinklers are convenient, but they soak foliage and encourage disease. Not only does spot watering at the plant's base conserve water and avoid wet foliage, it discourages weed growth in walkways and areas that are kept dry.
Although tomatoes viruses cannot be remedied, some funguses might be controlled, and determining which is which can even baffle experts. If your tomatoes look sickly and have drooping foliage, you can rule out heat drooping by visiting your garden at daybreak. When observing your tomatoes in the cool of morning, good indicators of a fusarium wilt fungal infection are drooping leaves on parts of some plants, but not all plants.
If you observe drooping on only part of your tomatoes, drive to your local garden center ASAP and purchase a fungicide recommended to combat fusarium wilt, then apply as directed to every tomato plant and keep your fingers crossed that it doesn't spread.
TIP: Fusarium wilt can affect all vegetables in the nightshade family (eggplants, peppers, potato vines, etc), so you should purchase a fungicide that's also recommended for those plants and spray them, too.
First and foremost, remember that tomatoes hate soggy soil. As a recommended daily routine, poke your finger two inches beneath the soil's surface at the plant's base. If you feel dampness, you're good.
Area sprinklers are convenient, but they soak foliage and encourage disease. Not only does spot watering at the plant's base conserve water and avoid wet foliage, it discourages weed growth in walkways and areas that are kept dry.
Although tomatoes viruses cannot be remedied, some funguses might be controlled, and determining which is which can even baffle experts. If your tomatoes look sickly and have drooping foliage, you can rule out heat drooping by visiting your garden at daybreak. When observing your tomatoes in the cool of morning, good indicators of a fusarium wilt fungal infection are drooping leaves on parts of some plants, but not all plants.
If you observe drooping on only part of your tomatoes, drive to your local garden center ASAP and purchase a fungicide recommended to combat fusarium wilt, then apply as directed to every tomato plant and keep your fingers crossed that it doesn't spread.
TIP: Fusarium wilt can affect all vegetables in the nightshade family (eggplants, peppers, potato vines, etc), so you should purchase a fungicide that's also recommended for those plants and spray them, too.
BUCKETS READIED TO THWART JACK FROST
TIP: Since Mother Nature doesn't always heed the last expected frost dates which are generally accepted as safe times for transplanting, it's best to be prepared. Simple nighttime frost protection could involve inverting buckets over your plants, draping newspapers or old cotton sheets over tender seedlings, or covering plants with a six-inch layer of loose straw.
When using the above safeguards, always remove them the next morning when temperatures rise above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius).
Safeguards such as commercially manufactured floating row covers do not need to be removed until warmer weather and can be purchased online or at garden supply stores.
When using the above safeguards, always remove them the next morning when temperatures rise above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius).
Safeguards such as commercially manufactured floating row covers do not need to be removed until warmer weather and can be purchased online or at garden supply stores.