MY ALL-AROUND FAVORITE CUKE: "STRAIGHT EIGHT" HEIRLOOM
Aside from being super easy to grow, cucumbers require nothing more than chilling and peeling to become refreshing snacks and side dishes.
And, if one wishes to expand on that elegant level of simplicity, an Internet search returns dozens of suggestions for using cucumbers in sandwiches, pastas, salads, pickles, preserves, mixed drinks, wines, etc.
When harvested regularly and given adequate soil, moisture, and sunlight, one conventional heirloom cucumber vine will return 20 to 30 fruits over its lifespan.
Although it's fair to note that hybrid cucumbers have acceptable flavor, and that bush varieties boast space saving virtues, neither can compete with the flavor of traditional heirloom cucumbers.
As such, we'll cover how to grow heirloom cukes in the same space needed for bush varieties while receiving up to three times the yield.
And, if one wishes to expand on that elegant level of simplicity, an Internet search returns dozens of suggestions for using cucumbers in sandwiches, pastas, salads, pickles, preserves, mixed drinks, wines, etc.
When harvested regularly and given adequate soil, moisture, and sunlight, one conventional heirloom cucumber vine will return 20 to 30 fruits over its lifespan.
Although it's fair to note that hybrid cucumbers have acceptable flavor, and that bush varieties boast space saving virtues, neither can compete with the flavor of traditional heirloom cucumbers.
As such, we'll cover how to grow heirloom cukes in the same space needed for bush varieties while receiving up to three times the yield.
MOUND PLANTING FOR INDIVIDUAL CUCUMBER VINES
Mound Planting:
Cucumbers do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is enough for decent success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Cucumbers thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless fruits.
Depicted at right is a mound that's sized properly for ONE vine. Begin by measuring a 12 inch (1 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inches deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many cukes to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout two seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot. When seedlings are two inches tall, remove all but the healthiest one seedling per pot for placement in mounds after your last frost date as depicted by "A," "B," and "C."
When the "A," "B," and "C" transplants form their first blossoms, remove all but the healthiest single vine. If you want a second planting, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by "A," "B," and "C."
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout in the secondary mounds, you'll have seedlings with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the most vigorous one seedling in each mound.
Cucumbers do best in sandy loam soils that are rich in composted organic matter which is enough for decent success, but mound planting allows gardeners a way to supercharge vines.
This method is especially helpful in heavy clay soil because it provides plants excellent nutrition and drainage without the need to rework large growing areas.
Cucumbers thrive best in moderately moist soil: Adequate drainage is especially important since wet soil encourages molds, funguses, and viruses that can kill vines, plus, an overabundance of water leads to flavorless fruits.
Depicted at right is a mound that's sized properly for ONE vine. Begin by measuring a 12 inch (1 ft.) diameter area, then remove the soil to form a pit six inches deep. Fill the hole with composted manure, then cover it with the soil removed from the hole to create a mound.
TIP: For areas with frosts ending May 16 and earlier, it's possible to have at least two consecutive plantings which avoids having too many cukes to eat at once.
Starting indoors one month prior to your last frost date, sprout two seeds per each 8 ounce peat pot. When seedlings are two inches tall, remove all but the healthiest one seedling per pot for placement in mounds after your last frost date as depicted by "A," "B," and "C."
When the "A," "B," and "C" transplants form their first blossoms, remove all but the healthiest single vine. If you want a second planting, plant secondary mounds with seeds as indicated by "A," "B," and "C."
Usually within three weeks after the seeds sprout in the secondary mounds, you'll have seedlings with three mature leaves. At this time, remove all but the most vigorous one seedling in each mound.
ONE CYLINDRICAL TRELLIS 3ft. WIDE, 4 ft. HIGH PER VINE
Trellising:
Although conventional linear trellises work well for most climbing vines, cylindrical trellises works best for cucumbers.
Shown at right is a 3 ft. wide x 4 ft. tall cylinder constructed of livestock fence supporting one Straight Eight heirloom vine growing from its center. Please note that the wire cylinder is attached to metal stakes driven into the ground to prevent the trellis from toppling during high winds.
TIP: A simple formula exists to determine how much wire one needs to make a cylinder of any given size: For instance, if you want a cylinder three feet across, multiply 3 ft. by 3.14 which equals 9.42 ft., which is almost exactly 9 ft. five inches.
Although it's okay to use other types of wire, livestock fencing has enough strength to withstand the weight of rain-soaked vines and fruit, plus, the large mesh allows enough room for your hand to pass through when harvesting cukes hanging inside.
As the vine climbs upward, its leaves cover the cylindrical trellis' exterior, but the fruits form mostly in the trellis' center where they're shaded from the sun. This shading helps to prevent the skins from becoming tough and thick which adds bitterness to the fruits themselves.
As a rule, heirloom Straight Eight cukes are best when picked at six to seven inches in length when their flesh is crisp and seeds are underdeveloped and tender.
TIP: Remember that one is company, two's a crowd when growing cukes: One vine will completely fill a trellis this size, and two will overcrowd and encourage disease by restricting air flow.
Although conventional linear trellises work well for most climbing vines, cylindrical trellises works best for cucumbers.
Shown at right is a 3 ft. wide x 4 ft. tall cylinder constructed of livestock fence supporting one Straight Eight heirloom vine growing from its center. Please note that the wire cylinder is attached to metal stakes driven into the ground to prevent the trellis from toppling during high winds.
TIP: A simple formula exists to determine how much wire one needs to make a cylinder of any given size: For instance, if you want a cylinder three feet across, multiply 3 ft. by 3.14 which equals 9.42 ft., which is almost exactly 9 ft. five inches.
Although it's okay to use other types of wire, livestock fencing has enough strength to withstand the weight of rain-soaked vines and fruit, plus, the large mesh allows enough room for your hand to pass through when harvesting cukes hanging inside.
As the vine climbs upward, its leaves cover the cylindrical trellis' exterior, but the fruits form mostly in the trellis' center where they're shaded from the sun. This shading helps to prevent the skins from becoming tough and thick which adds bitterness to the fruits themselves.
As a rule, heirloom Straight Eight cukes are best when picked at six to seven inches in length when their flesh is crisp and seeds are underdeveloped and tender.
TIP: Remember that one is company, two's a crowd when growing cukes: One vine will completely fill a trellis this size, and two will overcrowd and encourage disease by restricting air flow.
FEMALE CUCUMBER BLOSSOM ON LEFT, MALE ON RIGHT
The Birds and Bees:
Although we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, cucumbers do not, and gardeners should be willing to step in until pollinators find those blossoms.
Cucumber vines produce male and female blossoms, and if you left click on the rightward image, you'll see that the female blossom on the left has a small green cuke at her base that could potentially form a mature fruit. On the right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
Although we primarily think of honeybees as pollinators, many varieties of birds, bees, butterflies, wasps, etc. play crucial roles in assuring the success of more than 180,000 plant species. Although some vegetables self-pollinate, cucumbers do not, and gardeners should be willing to step in until pollinators find those blossoms.
Cucumber vines produce male and female blossoms, and if you left click on the rightward image, you'll see that the female blossom on the left has a small green cuke at her base that could potentially form a mature fruit. On the right is a male blossom which grows only on a plain stem, and now that you know the difference between blossoms, find a Q-tip or artist's brush and get ready.
COLLECTING POLLEN FROM MALE BLOSSOMS
As a rule, cucumber vines produce more male than female blossoms, so don't be disappointed if you can't locate any female blossoms on your first attempt.
Try again each day until locating a female blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the centers of several male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, then use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to do the same for any female blossoms that are open. Even though you may not see the usual yellowish residue associated with pollen on your blotting device, it's there, so don't worry.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating cucumbers, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer.
Try again each day until locating a female blossom, then do this in the following order:
Gently blot the centers of several male blossoms with your Q-tip or artist's brush, then use the same end of your Q-tip or brush to do the same for any female blossoms that are open. Even though you may not see the usual yellowish residue associated with pollen on your blotting device, it's there, so don't worry.
Repeat this ritual each day until pollinators begin frequenting your blossoms upon which time you can relax as they'll spread the word to their fellow pollinators.
TIP: When artificially pollinating cucumbers, wait until the morning dew has evaporated to assure that the pollen has dried enough to transfer.